CEC board member and Athlete’s Representative, Stacey Weldon, has set up a FaceBook page and Instagram account for athletes to discuss, get answers and share thoughts on on issues effecting them as competition climbers. Do go and check them out and join the discussion.
FaceBook @climbingcanadareps
Instagram @cec.athletes.commission
The Athlete’s Commission consists of; Stacey Weldon – President, Alannah Yip – Boulder Rep, Christy Spurell – Speed Rep and Becca Frangos – Lead Rep
POLICY AND PROCEDURE: FOREIGN NATIONALS. Nov 8/ 2018
BACKGROUND AND DEFINITIONS
A Foreign National is defined as any athlete wishing to compete in a CEC event and who does not hold a Canadian Passport (therefore is not eligible to compete for Canada Internationally). Foreign Nationals are further categorized as follows:
i. Non-Affiliated FN – is a permanent resident or landed immigrant in Canada without active membership in another National Climbing Federation.
ii. Affiliated FN – may or may not be a resident of Canada and is an active member of another National Federation (must provide proof of membership).
While the CEC would like to welcome foreign national athletes at CEC events, there were several considerations in creating this policy:
1) It is imperative that Canadian athletes be given every opportunity to develop within the CEC competition and team selection process including competing in as many rounds as possible. For this reason, FNs competing in National Championships will not displace Canadian athletes from any round (extra quotas).
2) CEC events must be run in a reasonable time frame. The extra quota from FNs extends event time frames
3) Canadian athletes invest in the sport domestically (through membership fees, participation etc).
POLICY AND GUIDELINES – CEC EVENTS
NEW! For 2019, the following policies will apply to FNs:
Open
1. Non-Affiliated FNs
1.1. Must purchase CEC license and meet all qualifying and eligibility requirements through a PSO or a CEC recognized non-PSO qualifying event. .
1.2. Will be considered extra quota both for qualifying and at CEC events.
1.3. There are no quotas for Non-Affiliated FNs
2. Affiliated FNs
2.1. DO NOT require a CEC license and DO NOT qualify through PSO championships.
2.2. Must be registered with affiliated NSO (USAC, SCA, FFME etc).
2.3. A 15% registration surcharge for CEC events will apply to all Affiliated FNs.
2.4. Will have a quota of 4 men and 4 women only from any one National Federation.
Youth
1. Non-Affiliated FNs
1.1. Must purchase a CEC license and meet all qualifying and eligibility requirements through PSO championships or CEC recognized non-PSO qualifying event.
1.2. Will be considered extra quota both for qualifying and at CEC events.
1.3. There are no quotas for Non-Affiliated FNs
2. Affiliated FNs
2.1. DO NOT require a CEC license and DO NOT qualify through PSO championships.
2.2. Must be registered with affiliated NSO (USAC, SCA, FFME etc).
2.3. A 15% registration surcharge for CEC events will apply to all Affiliated FNs.
2.4. Will have a quota of 2 per age/gender category from any one National Federation.
Call for Applications – CEC Judge – National Championships
The CEC is accepting applications for the position of CEC Judge (this position is formerly known as “Head Judge”) at each of the National Championships in the 2019 season.
Applications will be open from November 5, 2018 to 11:59 pm PDT, November 20, 2018.
Email applications including personal CV to: cec.ed@climbingcanada.ca
Please indicate which event(s) you are applying for.
Download the PDF: Call for Applications 2018 – CEC Judge – En
Call for Applications – Jury President (JP) – National Championships
The CEC is accepting applications for the position of Jury President at each of the National Championships in the 2019 season.
Applications will be open from November 4, 2018 to 11:59 pm PDT, November 20, 2018.
Email applications including personal CV to: cec.ed@climbingcanada.ca
Please indicate which event(s) you are applying for.
Download the PDF: Call for Applications 2018 – JP-En
Call for Applications:
Chief Routesetter – 2019 National Championships
Assistant Chief Routesetter – 2019 National Championships
The CEC is accepting applications for the positions of Chief Routesetter and Assistant Chief Routesetter at each of the three National Championships in the 2019 season.
You may apply for any or all three events. Please indicate which event(s) being applied for.
Applications for these positions will be open from November 3, 2018 to 11:59 pm PDT, November 20, 2018.
Email applications including personal CV to: cec.ed@climbingcanada.ca
CEC High performance Director, Andrew Wilson, has released the new CEC National Team Program. It was presented to the CEC members in a conference call yesterday.
It is available as a PDF for download here …and also on the National Team link.
HPD Update – Oct 14/2018
RE: National Teams Programs, Team Selections
Hello Climbers,
Just a quick update on the release of National Team Programs and Team Selections for the 2018-2019 season.
This info will be published on the CEC website on Oct 24. The reason it will not be the 15th as stated earlier is to allow the presentation of these programs to the PSO representatives. Additional time is also needed to finish consultation/review with Sport Canada, Canadian Olympic Committee and Own The Podium advisors. In this Olympic qualifying year, it is critical that our team programs and selection processes fall in line with requirements from these 3 funding bodies.
Thank you for your continued patience.
If you have any questions or feedback, please email me at: cec.hpd@climbingcanada.ca
Andrew
October 2, 2018 – Qualifying for 2019 Open and Youth National Championships
Youth:
Each PSO will have a quota of 8 athletes per age category per gender (Youth C, Youth B, Youth A, Junior). Names will be submitted by the PSO after Provincial qualifying series conclude.
New! Athletes from provinces without PSOs will be required to submit an application. Process TBA. These provinces will also have a quota of 8 per age category and gender.
Extra Quota:
Reigning National Champions are considered extra quota (i.e. OCF has an athlete who is Youth B national champ from 2018 who is moving up to youth a. OCF will have 9 eligible athletes for Youth A).
Canadian Non-residents (athletes who hold Canadian passport and reside outside Canada) must qualify through a PSO (be ranked in the top 8) and are extra quota for that PSO.
Unfilled Quotas:
Any provincial quotas that are not used will be split evenly amongst provinces who have filled their quotas already. In the case where the number of unfilled quota spots is unequal, only equal additional spots will be made available.
Open:
New! For 2019, open athletes in provinces with PSOs must compete at provincial championships to be eligible for Open Boulder Nationals. Athletes in provinces without PSOs will required to submit an application. Process TBA.
There are no quotas for each province this season.
Athletes meeting the following performance criteria from the previous season will be exempt from competing at provincial championships:
Information regarding National Teams Programs for both Youth and Open will be announced Oct 15th/ 2018.
Please stay tuned!
Andrew Wilson
High Performance Director
cec.hpd@climbingcanada.ca
Attention non-PSO athletes, gyms and climbing clubs.
NOTE: THIS IS FOR NON-PSO REFERENCE ONLY!!
Oct.1, 2018 – For NON-PSO athletes wishing to compete in 2018 – 2019 CEC national championship competitions we offer the following requirements and guidelines for athletes, coaches, gyms and climbing clubs in jurisdictions NOT COVERED by a Provincial Sports Organization (PSO) in BC, Alberta, Ontario and Quebec.
The Alpine Club of Canada, the UIAA recognized Regional Sports Organization and member of the CEC, offers the following for Canadian athletes outside of the PSO jurisdictions.
FOR ATHLETES:
There are the two ways you can qualify for a CEC national championship competition.
FOR GYMS and CLIMBING CLUBS:
You may conduct a specific provincial qualifying competition or identify an existing major or legacy competition as a national qualifier provided that it is open to the general public, advertised publicly and follows the CEC / IFSC rules guidelines for age categories, scoring and format.
For both bouldering and lead competitions the route setting should reflect and test all aspects of climbing skills with a diversity of movements in routes and boulder problems
BOULDERING:
2017 IFSC scoring system shall apply –
1) Number of Tops
2) Number of Zones
3 ) Attempts to Tops
4) Attempts to Zones
A 5 on 5 off format is most desirable for qualification rounds to provide continuity but scramble redpoint start is permitted for qualifiers.
For semis and finals 4 (min) on 4 (min) off format following CEC/IFSC standard is required.
LEAD / Top Rope:
Two qualifier routes, Flash Format.
One finals route, Onsight Format.
One attempt at each route
Youth C & D compete on top rope only.
AGE CATAGORIES for 2018-19 Season by year of birth:
Open – In or Before 2003
Junior – 2000 and 2001
Youth A – 2002 and 2003
Youth B – 2004 and 2005
Youth C – 2006 and 2007
NOTE: There is no Youth D in CEC national championships.
Please see the CEC 2016-17 Rules for further information and full regulations.
LINKS:
CEC Registration website
Quebec PSO. FQME
Ontario PSO. OCF
Alberta PSO. ACA,
British Columbia PSO. SCBC,
Alpine Club of Canada, RSO,
IFSC, http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/
Contacts:
Greg Locke, Director
cec.media@climbingcanada.ca
Jeff Thomson, Executive Director
cec.ed@climbingcanada.ca
2018 PAN AMERICAN CHAMPIONSHIPS Selection Process
The 2018 Open Pan American Championships will be held Nov 21-26 in Guayaquil, Ecuador. The CEC invites athletes wishing to represent Canada to use the process outlined below.
It is the responsibility of all athletes to ensure that they comply with this process, including attending required selection events, camps and execute all applications and understand all applicable terms and conditions by the relevant deadlines.
As part of CEC’s High-Performance strategy, this Policy will be reviewed before every Pan Am Championship and amendments may be made to ensure the Policy provides the best possible outcomes.
Please check for updates regularly.
OBJECTIVES:
The objectives of the selection committee and this process are to:
– Select athletes who will achieve the following results at the Pan Am Championships:
1 – Semi-Final or better in one discipline
2- Top 20 in Overall (there is no combined category or format at the 2018 Pan Am Championships)
Select athletes who will represent Canada professionally at all times.
Select athletes who are ready for the developmental benefit in order to realize future potential.
Athlete selection to the 2018 Pan American Championships team will be made by the selection committee.
ELIGIBILITY:
To be eligible for consideration for selection to the team, athletes must:
1 – be a Canadian citizen;
2 – have read, signed in agreement and returned the execution page of the CEC athlete agreement.
3 – be a current CEC National Level Member in good standing;
4 – meet the age requirement to participate in adult international competition under IFSC policy
5 – agree to Canadian Centre for Ethics in Sport (CCEC) and WADA anti-doping policies (ADPs);
6 – agree to participate in and meet all competition, training and participation requirements as determined by the HP committee;
7 – be available for sample collection and have provided accurate and up-to- date whereabouts information on a regular basis as directed by IFSC and/or the Canadian Centre for Ethic in Sport (CCES), under the policies of IFSC and CCES and the World Anti-Doping Code (Code);
8 – not have breached any ADPs nor have had a sanction imposed which has not been completed. For the purpose of considering eligibility for selection, a breach of any ADP may include: (i). an athlete under investigation for an Anti-Doping Rule Violation (ADRV) where an infraction notice has been issued or the athlete has been stood down under the provisions of any ADP; or ii. a failure to comply with an athlete’s obligations under an ADP, even if such a breach does not result in an ADRV.
SELECTION COMMITTEE:
The role of assessing athletes against the selection criteria is the responsibility of the selection committee.
The committee consists of the CEC The Executive Director (ED), The National Coach (NC) and one representative of the HP committee other than ED or NC.
The NC will act as chairperson of the Selection Committee. In the case of unavailability or a conflict of interest the chairperson may appoint a replacement selection committee member. Each selection committee member will vote on athlete selection in line with the selection criteria objectives and without bias. If panel members cannot agree, the chairperson will have the final selection decision.
AMENDMENTS:
These criteria and sub sections may be amended or supplemented, particularly where matters arise which have not been provided for in these criteria. All amendments must be approved by the CEC Board. If approved, the CEC will provide public notification in writing, any criteria amendment or supplement, and will endeavour to give as much notice as possible, to all persons affected by any such amendment or supplement.
APPEALS:
There is no right of appeal to any athlete who is not selected under these criteria.
2018 PAN AMERICAN CHAMPIONSHIPS SELECTION CRITERIA:
A. LEAD, BOULDER AND SPEED ONLY ATHLETES
Athletes will be selected based on 2018 WC rankings up to and including Munich (Kranj, Wujang and Xiamen fall too close to Pan Ams to be considered).
Lead: 2 male, 2 female
Boulder: 3 male, 3 female
Speed: 2 male, 2 female
Athletes without 2018 WC results will not be considered.
B. OVERALL ATHLETES
1 additional male and 1 additional female may be selected to compete in all 3 disciplines for the Overall event. These athletes will be selected based on a combination of 2018 WC, YWC and National Championship results. Selection for single disciplines or Overall is at the sole discretion of the selection committee. Meeting the criteria to be considered does not guarantee selection.
C. TIMING
The timing and notification for 2018 Pan Am selections is as follows:
FUNDING:
There is no funding for this event.
Athletes selected will be responsible for all expenses associated including a team fee (TBD based on number of team members) to cover support team (coach(es), medical).