2022 Youth World Championships Recap

Sep 6, 2022

Canada’s best young climbers were on display this August in Dallas, USA at the annual Youth World Championships. 38 athletes competed over 10 days in all 3 disciplines (Boulder, Speed and Lead) from Aug 22-Aug 31. Canada had 18 entries in Boulder, 18 in Lead, and 14 in Speed.

The Team was supported by an amazing crew of 7 CEC staff members, alongside friends and family. The results we saw in Dallas prove that there is a lot to be excited about for the next generation of Canadian athletes. Here is a recap of the action:

Boulder

Bouldering took the stage to kick-off the 2022 YWC from Aug 22-25. CEC athletes showed very well amongst a strong international field, with 5 athletes moving through to the semi-finals: Ethan Hoffman, Jaxson MacDonald, Jacqueline Ho, Oscar Baudrand and Dylan Le. They all had strong semi-final rounds with Ethan missing the final round by only one place!

Canada finished with a best ever ranking of 5th in the Country Rankings for Males and 17th for Females, as well as a combined 9th in Boulder!!

Canadian Results – Boulder:
Full Boulder Results here: https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1246

  • Junior Male: Ethan Hoffman (7); Jaxson MacDonald (10); TJ Foley (37)
  • Junior Female: Makayla-Skye Koci (31); Emilia Callanan (33); Riley Galloway (38)
  • Youth A Male: Oscar Baudrand (11); Dylan Le (12); Benjamin Chapman (39)
  • Youth A Female: Jacqueline Ho (19); Alexa Vanier (31); Evangelina Briggs (40)
  • Youth B Male: Christian Chan (25); Nathaniel Smith (26); Evan Lau (36)
  • Youth B Female: Anna Kelley (22); Sienna Chow (36); Graciela Briggs (39)

Speed

Canada’s Speed climbers were next to take up the challenge, and they did so in style with another 5 athletes through to the semi-final (round of 16): Dylan Le, Reena Gao, Riley Galloway, Oceane Gelinas, and Ines Ferrarini. Dylan Le and Reena Gao both snagged top 10 finishes, with Oceane Gelinas and Ines Ferrarini posting top 15’s.

In Speed Country Rankings, it was the Women leading the way with a 6th place ranking to go along with the Men’s 9th for another overall top 10 country ranking of 7th for Canada!

Canadian Results – Speed:
Full Speed Results here: https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1246

  • Junior Male: Braeden Bossert (22);
  • Junior Female: Riley Galloway (top 16); Louisa Krusekopf (17)
  • Youth A Male: Dylan Le (top 8); Jack Whitney (22); Adrien Levesque (23)
  • Youth A Female: Reena Gao (top 8); Kameryn Carroll (17); Cedar Hendry (19)
  • Youth B Male: Evan Lau (18); Colby Gaine (21)
  • Youth B Female: Oceane Gelinas (top 16); Ines Ferrarini (top 16); Sienna Chow (17)

Lead

It was left to the Lead Team to close out the 2022 YWC and they didn’t disappoint. 7 CEC athletes climbed into the semi-finals: Ethan Hoffman, Hugo Dorval, Indiana Chapman, Emi Takashiba, Molly Dreher, Dylan Le and Evan Lau. Indiana Chapman posted the highest result at 12th while Hugo Dorval managed a 17th place finish in his first Youth World’s.

Canada finished 12th in the Country Rankings for Lead on the strength of 13th for the Men and 16th for the Women!

Canadian Results – Lead:
Full Lead Results here: https://ifsc.results.info/#/event/1246

  • Junior Male: Hugo Dorval (17); Ethan Hoffman (18); Jaxson MacDonald (27)
  • Junior Female: Indiana Chapman (12); Emi Takashiba (20); Alexis Binder (29)
  • Youth A Male: Dylan Le (21); Benjamin Tonnos (36); Adam Edwards (39)
  • Youth A Female: Molly Dreher (22); Jacqueline Ho (33); Alexa Vanier (37)
  • Youth B Male: Evan Lau (24); Nathaniel Smith (33); Brody Rapkowski (34)
  • Youth B Female: Sienna Chow (30); Sofie King (39); Sloane Betker (48)

 

Notes and Highlights

This year was the first time since 2019 that Canada has been allowed/abled to send athletes to the YWC. Despite the shutdowns, interruptions to training and other challenges brought on by the pandemic, these young athletes performed very well and showed improved depth.

A couple of noteworthy accomplishments came from Dylan Le, Ethan Hoffman and Reena Gao.

  • Dylan made it to the semi-final (or round of 16) in all 3 disciplines (boulder, speed, lead)! This is something achieved by a very small number of athletes in today’s world of specialization! This performance includes an 8th place finish in Speed.
  • Ethan made the semi-final in both Boulder and Lead and posted a Canadian Team Best result of 7th in Boulder.
  • Reena produced Personal Records in each of her speed runs to finish 8th in Speed. She posted a PR of 9.04s in the 1/4 final taking more than 1.5s off her PR in less than a month!

 

All of these accomplishments would not have been possible without an incredible CEC Staff team in Dallas. CEC would like to acknowledge and share appreciation for the dedicated individuals who were there to support our athletes:

  • Team Manager – Michelle Linhart
  • Men’s Head Coach – Dallas Mix
  • Women’s Head Coach – Nani Woollings
  • Asiistant Coaches – Beth Staubitz, Patrick Labelle, Fred Desgranges, Andrei Mandzuk

 

Well done Team Canada, Well Done!!!

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IL NE RESTE PLUS QUE 4 JOURS POUR S'INSCRIRE ! Les inscriptions actuelles pour l'événement NACS de bloc 2024 au Canada montrent 54% de Canadiens contre 46% de Nord-Américains (USA, COL). Le même ratio s'appliquera-t-il aux podiums ? Nous avons hâte de voir qui montera sur le podium !

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ONLY 4 DAYS LEFT TO REGISTER!
Current registrations for the 2024 NACS Boulder event in Canada shows 54% of Canadians vs 46% of North Americans (USA, COL). Will the same ratio apply to the Podiums?? Can't wait to see who will come out on top!

Link in bio / Lien en bio

IL NE RESTE PLUS QUE 4 JOURS POUR S'INSCRIRE ! Les inscriptions actuelles pour l'événement NACS de bloc 2024 au Canada montrent 54% de Canadiens contre 46% de Nord-Américains (USA, COL). Le même ratio s'appliquera-t-il aux podiums ? Nous avons hâte de voir qui montera sur le podium !

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Today, the LA28 Olympic and Paralympic Games proposed to the International Paralympic Committee (IPC) to add Para Climbing to the 2028 Paralympic Sport Program. That is one step closer to inclusion of our sport in the Paralympic Games!

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Aujourd'hui, les Jeux Olympiques et Paralympiques de LA28 ont proposé au Comité International Paralympique (CIP) d'ajouter la para-escalade au programme des sports paralympiques de 2028. C'est un pas de plus vers l'inclusion de notre sport dans les Jeux Paralympiques !

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Today, the LA28 Olympic and Paralympic Games proposed to the International Paralympic Committee (IPC) to add Para Climbing to the 2028 Paralympic Sport Program. That is one step closer to inclusion of our sport in the Paralympic Games!

Link in bio / lien en bio

Aujourd'hui, les Jeux Olympiques et Paralympiques de LA28 ont proposé au Comité International Paralympique (CIP) d'ajouter la para-escalade au programme des sports paralympiques de 2028. C'est un pas de plus vers l'inclusion de notre sport dans les Jeux Paralympiques !

📸 @xsloba

@ifsclimbing @teamcanada @sportcanada.en @sportcanada.fr @arcteryx @paraclimb_canada
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VOLUNTEER SPOTLIGHT
Read more about our Volunteer Spotligh on our website, and be like Yannick - Volunteer with us today! We need volunteers for the upcoming NACS boulder event in Kanata, on June 22-23!

Link in bio / Lien en bio

PLEIN FEUX SUR LES BÉNÉVOLES
Lisez plus sur notre Volunteer Spotligh sur notre site web, et soyez comme Yannick - devenez bénévole avec nous aujourd'hui ! Nous avons besoin de bénévoles pour le prochain événement de bloc de la NACS à Kanata, les 22 et 23 juin !

@altitudegym
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