2024 HP Competitions – Event Central

 

The 2024 High Performance Competitions (Boulder & Lead) will take place at the Richmond Olympic Oval as follows:

  • Boulder, February 22-23, 2024
  • Lead, February 26-27, 2024
  • Performance Workshops (5) from February 22 to 27, 2024
  • This event is by invitation only
  • This event will be scored on the CEC Vertical Life Platform. This event will NOT be livestreamed.
  • We need volunteers to help us run this event! Please consider signing up for one or many shifts. Register here.

 

Start Lists

 

Objectives

The CEC High Performance Competitions have the following objectives:

  • Replicate World Cup Qualification Rounds with the goals of qualifying more Canadian athletes into World Cup Semi Final rounds
  • Test athletes in their ability to compete independently, without personal coach support
  • Provide high performance value to athletes in the form of coaching, routesetting, and workshops
  • Provide an opportunity to collect Continuous National Ranking (CNR) points

 

Workshop Details

  • Registered athletes have access to ALL workshops for FREE (included in registration cost, no need to register)
  • Coaches and community members can register for in-person ($75) or online access ($50) here: https://forms.gle/TDUwLvjZEFCPxyNB8
  • See Workshop Details below

 

Coaching Access

The main goal of the High Performance Competition is to challenge athletes to perform with little to no coaching, as often experienced on the World Cup tour.

Therefore, during the COMPETITIONS (including warm up), coaches will not be allowed to interact with the athletes. Coaches are allowed to join the debrief period AFTER the competition has concluded.

Only REGISTERED coaches can fill appeals and partake in the debrief sessions (please give priority to athletes in the debrief sessions). To register as a CEC Coach, please fill out this form: https://forms.gle/iTyoq3oMD115yYq5A

 

CEC Event Team

We are excited to welcome guest Head Setter Romain Cabessut to lead our team of Canadian setters for this event. Romain has set at more than 100 International and National Events, including the 2021 Olympi Games and the 2023 PanAmerican Games. He is a member of the IFSC Routestting Commission, and a Certified IFSC Head Setter. Debriefing sessions will be conducted in English, but Romain will be more than happy to answer your questions in French!

Setting Team

  • Head Setter: Romain Cabessut (FRA, IFSC Level 4)
  • Setters: Simon Parton, Hayden Jones, Lucas Uchida, Pedro Corral

Official Team

  • Boulder Jury President: Mohammad Havaledar (CAN/IRA)
  • Lead Jury President: JoAnne Carilli-Stevenson (USA)

 

Schedule & Format

Thursday February 22, 2024 Boulder Male Competition
8:00am Check In Open
8:30am ISO closes
8:30am - 9:30am WarmUp
9:30am - 1pm Competition

5 problems, 5on 5off
Onsight Format

1pm - 2:45pm Debrief Session

Debrief the problems with routesetters and try them again!
*debrief will start as soon as the round is over

3:00pm - 4:30pm Workshop #1

Game Plan

Speaker: Candice Drouin, CSI Pacific

Do you know of Game Plan? Do you know how to manage being a high performance athlete, while still planning for life after sport? 

Candice is a Game Plan Advisor at CSI Pacific. Her impressive qualifications include a Masters in Education, Coaching studies, and a Bachelor of Communications, Minor in Publishing. She has experience as an elite athlete & national team coach. In her Game Plan role, she advises athletes on their career and academic goals and how to manage being an elite athlete, while still planning for a future after sport.

Friday February 23, 2024 Boulder Female Competition
8:00am Check In Open
8:30am ISO closes
8:30am - 9:30am WarmUp
9:30am - 1pm Competition

5 problems, 5on 5off
Onsight Format

1pm - 2:45pm Debrief Session

Debrief the problems with routesetters and try them again!
*debrief will start as soon as the round is over

3:00pm - 4:00pm Workshop #2

Physiology Part 1

From training principles to innovative technology – tools to help you plan your training, optimize your recovery, and prepare for competition.

Speaker: Stacey Hutton, CSI Pacific

Stacey Hutton is a physiologist with the Canadian Sport Institute (CSI) Pacific and Adjunct Professor at the University of British Columbia. Working in high performance sport for over 15 years and responsible for most of the physiological assessments with CSI Pacific registered athletes between Vancouver and Whistler, Stacey has seen first-hand how some of the world’s most accomplished athletes in a variety of sports reach their peak performance.

Stacey will broadly discuss topics related to relative energy deficiency (REDS), environmental considerations, and general considerations for aerobic testing.

Saturday, February 24, 2024 Workshops
11am - 12pm Workshop #3 Nutrition

Speaker: Stephen Gurr, CSI Pacific

Fueling performance in both training and competition, nutrition strategies to promote training adaptations and recovery, along with a brief discussion on low energy availability and RED-S. I will aim to leave 10-15 minutes at the end of the presentation for any questions the athletes may have.

Stephen is a Registered Dietitian with over 10-years’ experience providing nutrition services to elite adolescent and senior athletes from a wide range of sports, including individuals who have competed at the Olympic Games and World Championship level. Prior to moving to BC, Stephen worked as a Sports Dietitian at both the Australian Institute of Sport and the Aspire Academy of Sports Excellence in Doha, Qatar. Stephen aims to offer athletes individualized, evidenced-informed sports nutrition advice to help them achieve their health and performance goals.

1pm - 2pm Workshop #4 Physiology Part 2

Speaker: Benjamin McKeller, CSI Ontario

Workshop topics will include: Predictors of climbing performance and considerations for testing; Climbing competition physical and energetic demands; General periodization models; Competition strategies 

Ben Mckellar is a physiologist at the CSI Ontario. He is finishing his MSc at The university of Guelph looking at the application of blood flow restriction training to lead climbing performance and relevant physiology. Ben is a published researcher with a climbing specific paper investigating time management strategies in IFSC bouldering finals events. He has also helped the CEC with their RBC training ground athlete selection and coaches a youth climbing team in Toronto. 

Ben will be available after the workshop and throughout the HP competitions to answer questions.

Sunday, February 25, 2024 Rest Day
Monday, February 26, 2024 Lead Competition
8:00am Check In Open
8:30am ISO closes
8:30am - 9:30am WarmUp
9:30am - 11:30am Route A (male and female) 6min, Onsight Format
12pm - 2pm Route B (male and female) 6min, Flash Format
2pm - 4pm Debrief Session

Debrief the routes with routesetters and try them again!
*debrief will start as soon as the round is over

Tuesday, February 27, 2024 Lead Training Camp
9:30am - 10:30am Workshop #5

The science of sleep

  • How sleep and fatigue are measured
  • How sleep trackers work and what information is useful
  • How sleep and circadian rhythms affect reaction time and athletic performance
  • Causes of poor sleep 
  • When to seek medical advice
  • Managing jet lag and circadian rhythm disruptions
  • Strategies to obtain proper sleep
  • Review and questions

 

Speaker: Pat Byrne

Pat Byrne pioneered sleep and fatigue programs for professional athletes over 14 years ago and co-authored the ground breaking book, “Inconvenient Sleep: Why Teams Win and Lose”.

Pat spent seven years with the Vancouver Canucks providing training and consultation on sleep, travel, circadian rhythms and jet lag to all the players, coaches and management. His highly touted work there established the industry standard for managing sleep and fatigue across all sports.

Pat holds a graduate degree in Biochemistry from Western Washington University and has worked with researchers in the sleep and fatigue field for many years from the University of Pittsburgh, John Hopkins University, Washington State University and Stanford University.

11am - 12:30pm WarmUp
12:30pm - 4pm Climbing and Debrief Routesetters will debrief with athletes

 

 

 

 

 

 

Game-Plan-Action-Sheet-2024-fillable

Climbing nutrition presentation worksheet

EA fact sheet

EA fact sheet 2

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ONLY 4 DAYS LEFT TO REGISTER!
Current registrations for the 2024 NACS Boulder event in Canada shows 54% of Canadians vs 46% of North Americans (USA, COL). Will the same ratio apply to the Podiums?? Can't wait to see who will come out on top!

Link in bio / Lien en bio

IL NE RESTE PLUS QUE 4 JOURS POUR S'INSCRIRE ! Les inscriptions actuelles pour l'événement NACS de bloc 2024 au Canada montrent 54% de Canadiens contre 46% de Nord-Américains (USA, COL). Le même ratio s'appliquera-t-il aux podiums ? Nous avons hâte de voir qui montera sur le podium !

@usaclimbing @panamsportclimbing @arcteryx @altitudegym

ONLY 4 DAYS LEFT TO REGISTER!
Current registrations for the 2024 NACS Boulder event in Canada shows 54% of Canadians vs 46% of North Americans (USA, COL). Will the same ratio apply to the Podiums?? Can't wait to see who will come out on top!

Link in bio / Lien en bio

IL NE RESTE PLUS QUE 4 JOURS POUR S'INSCRIRE ! Les inscriptions actuelles pour l'événement NACS de bloc 2024 au Canada montrent 54% de Canadiens contre 46% de Nord-Américains (USA, COL). Le même ratio s'appliquera-t-il aux podiums ? Nous avons hâte de voir qui montera sur le podium !

@usaclimbing @panamsportclimbing @arcteryx @altitudegym
...

73 1
Today, the LA28 Olympic and Paralympic Games proposed to the International Paralympic Committee (IPC) to add Para Climbing to the 2028 Paralympic Sport Program. That is one step closer to inclusion of our sport in the Paralympic Games!

Link in bio / lien en bio

Aujourd'hui, les Jeux Olympiques et Paralympiques de LA28 ont proposé au Comité International Paralympique (CIP) d'ajouter la para-escalade au programme des sports paralympiques de 2028. C'est un pas de plus vers l'inclusion de notre sport dans les Jeux Paralympiques !

📸 @xsloba 

@ifsclimbing @teamcanada @sportcanada.en @sportcanada.fr @arcteryx @paraclimb_canada

Today, the LA28 Olympic and Paralympic Games proposed to the International Paralympic Committee (IPC) to add Para Climbing to the 2028 Paralympic Sport Program. That is one step closer to inclusion of our sport in the Paralympic Games!

Link in bio / lien en bio

Aujourd'hui, les Jeux Olympiques et Paralympiques de LA28 ont proposé au Comité International Paralympique (CIP) d'ajouter la para-escalade au programme des sports paralympiques de 2028. C'est un pas de plus vers l'inclusion de notre sport dans les Jeux Paralympiques !

📸 @xsloba

@ifsclimbing @teamcanada @sportcanada.en @sportcanada.fr @arcteryx @paraclimb_canada
...

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VOLUNTEER SPOTLIGHT
Read more about our Volunteer Spotligh on our website, and be like Yannick - Volunteer with us today! We need volunteers for the upcoming NACS boulder event in Kanata, on June 22-23!

Link in bio / Lien en bio

PLEIN FEUX SUR LES BÉNÉVOLES
Lisez plus sur notre Volunteer Spotligh sur notre site web, et soyez comme Yannick - devenez bénévole avec nous aujourd'hui ! Nous avons besoin de bénévoles pour le prochain événement de bloc de la NACS à Kanata, les 22 et 23 juin !

@altitudegym

VOLUNTEER SPOTLIGHT
Read more about our Volunteer Spotligh on our website, and be like Yannick - Volunteer with us today! We need volunteers for the upcoming NACS boulder event in Kanata, on June 22-23!

Link in bio / Lien en bio

PLEIN FEUX SUR LES BÉNÉVOLES
Lisez plus sur notre Volunteer Spotligh sur notre site web, et soyez comme Yannick - devenez bénévole avec nous aujourd'hui ! Nous avons besoin de bénévoles pour le prochain événement de bloc de la NACS à Kanata, les 22 et 23 juin !

@altitudegym
...

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