2024 World Cup Season – Team Canada Selection Process

Oct 31, 2023

CEC is currently undergoing a complete independent review of its High Performance Program, and the recommendations from the consultant are expected to be delivered to CEC by January 15, 2024.

Due to the timing of this review, the High Performance Committee recommends a status quo in the selection process for the 2024 Season. This means that the current HPP, CNR, and Team Selection Policy will be utilized for 2024 selections. Note that only the single-discipline CNR will be used in 2024, not the Combined CNR.

The High Performance Committee also recommends that CEC utilize all quotas available to Canada, throughout the 2024 IFSC season. All quotas will therefore be offered in priority order to athletes within the High Performance Program.

Taking into consideration the aforementioned, the High Performance Committee reserves the right to make small adjustments to the selection process following the recommendations from the independent consultant. Should there be any adjustments, they will be clearly communicated, along with an implementation timeline, and will not affect the selection process retroactively, but rather moving forward from the date of the change.

More significant changes to the selection process, based on the recommendations from the consultant, will be implemented for the 2025 World Cup Season.

More information regarding High Performance Competitions, as well as the 2024 North American Cup Series, will be communicated by the end of 2023.

For questions or concerns, please contact the Chair of the High Performance Committee, Melanie Marier, at [email protected] Alternatively, athletes can also reach out to their Athletes’ Commission co-chairs: Babette Roy and Michael Finn-Henry at [email protected]

 

2024 Quotas for Canada

Base Quotas Additional Quotas Total
Boulder Men 2 0 2
Boulder Women 2 1 3
Lead Men 2 1 3
Lead Women 2 0 2
Speed Men 2 0 2
Speed Women 2 0 2

 

2024 Calendar of Selection

World Cups Dates Disciplines Selection Deadline (no later than...)
First High Performance Program Intake* January 1st for B and L February 20 for S
IFSC World Cup in Keqiao, China 9 to 10 April Boulder Feb, 15 (because of China visa app)
IFSC World Cup in Wujiang, China 12 to 14 April Lead, Speed Feb, 15 (because of China visa app)
IFSC World Cup in Salt Lake City, USA 3 to 5 May Boulder, Speed April 1st
Second High Performance Program Intake* May 6th for all disciplines
First OQS Event, China** 16 to 19 May B&L, Speed Qualification through IFSC
Second OQS Event, Budapest** 20 to 23 June B&L, Speed Qualification through IFSC
IFSC World Cup in Innsbruck, Austria 26 to 30 June Boulder, Lead May 25th
IFSC World Cup in Chamonix, France 12 to 14 July Lead, Speed June 15th
IFSC World Cup in Briançon, France 17 to 19 July Lead, Speed June 15th
IFSC World Cup in Koper, Slovenia 6 to 7 September Lead August 1st
IFSC World Cup in Prague, Czech Republic 20 to 22 Sept Boulder August 15th
IFSC World Cup in Seoul, South Korea 2 to 6 October Boulder, Lead, Speed September 1st

*HPP Selection criteria available HERE
**Olympic Qualifier Series

 

In addition to the selection criteria outlined in the Event Team Selection Policy, Speed Athletes must comply with Minimum Performance Times. For reference, you can find the 2023 Stats below.

 

2024 Speed Minimum Performance Times

Category HPP Minimum Performance Times Speed Nationals Recommended Minimum Performance Times Speed Nationals Automatic Performance Time Youth World Championships Qualifying Times
15m Wall 15m Wall 10m Wall 15m Wall 15m Wall
Senior Women 8.281 9.20 6.13 8.781 n/a
Senior Men 6.193 7.10 4.73 6.393 n/a
Junior Women n/a 9.30 6.2 8.8 10.74
Junior Men n/a 7.20 4.8 6.7 7.9
Youth A Women n/a 10.70 7.13 9.7 11.24
Youth A Men n/a 8.60 5.73 7.6 8.9
Youth B Women n/a 11.20 7.46 10 11.74
Youth B Men n/a 9.10 6.06 7.9 9.9

 

2023 SENIOR Speed Performance Times (reference)

Category Minimum Time Round of 16 WCH Fastest Time WCH WC Season Best World Record
Senior Women 7.481 6.38 6.25 6.25
Senior Men 5.393 4.97 4.97 4.90

 

2023 YOUTH Speed Performance Times (reference)

Category Minimum Time, Round of 16 YWCH Fastest Time YWCH
Junior Women 11.43 7.91
Junior Men 7.743 5.728
Youth A Women 10.01 7.43
Youth A Men 7.61 5.92
Youth B Women 10.04 7.58
Youth B Men 8.42 5.69

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ONLY 4 DAYS LEFT TO REGISTER!
Current registrations for the 2024 NACS Boulder event in Canada shows 54% of Canadians vs 46% of North Americans (USA, COL). Will the same ratio apply to the Podiums?? Can't wait to see who will come out on top!

Link in bio / Lien en bio

IL NE RESTE PLUS QUE 4 JOURS POUR S'INSCRIRE ! Les inscriptions actuelles pour l'événement NACS de bloc 2024 au Canada montrent 54% de Canadiens contre 46% de Nord-Américains (USA, COL). Le même ratio s'appliquera-t-il aux podiums ? Nous avons hâte de voir qui montera sur le podium !

@usaclimbing @panamsportclimbing @arcteryx @altitudegym

ONLY 4 DAYS LEFT TO REGISTER!
Current registrations for the 2024 NACS Boulder event in Canada shows 54% of Canadians vs 46% of North Americans (USA, COL). Will the same ratio apply to the Podiums?? Can't wait to see who will come out on top!

Link in bio / Lien en bio

IL NE RESTE PLUS QUE 4 JOURS POUR S'INSCRIRE ! Les inscriptions actuelles pour l'événement NACS de bloc 2024 au Canada montrent 54% de Canadiens contre 46% de Nord-Américains (USA, COL). Le même ratio s'appliquera-t-il aux podiums ? Nous avons hâte de voir qui montera sur le podium !

@usaclimbing @panamsportclimbing @arcteryx @altitudegym
...

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Today, the LA28 Olympic and Paralympic Games proposed to the International Paralympic Committee (IPC) to add Para Climbing to the 2028 Paralympic Sport Program. That is one step closer to inclusion of our sport in the Paralympic Games!

Link in bio / lien en bio

Aujourd'hui, les Jeux Olympiques et Paralympiques de LA28 ont proposé au Comité International Paralympique (CIP) d'ajouter la para-escalade au programme des sports paralympiques de 2028. C'est un pas de plus vers l'inclusion de notre sport dans les Jeux Paralympiques !

📸 @xsloba 

@ifsclimbing @teamcanada @sportcanada.en @sportcanada.fr @arcteryx @paraclimb_canada

Today, the LA28 Olympic and Paralympic Games proposed to the International Paralympic Committee (IPC) to add Para Climbing to the 2028 Paralympic Sport Program. That is one step closer to inclusion of our sport in the Paralympic Games!

Link in bio / lien en bio

Aujourd'hui, les Jeux Olympiques et Paralympiques de LA28 ont proposé au Comité International Paralympique (CIP) d'ajouter la para-escalade au programme des sports paralympiques de 2028. C'est un pas de plus vers l'inclusion de notre sport dans les Jeux Paralympiques !

📸 @xsloba

@ifsclimbing @teamcanada @sportcanada.en @sportcanada.fr @arcteryx @paraclimb_canada
...

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