New IFSC Flash Format – How will it work for the CEC Boulder National Championships?

Nov 10, 2021

How will it work?

  • There will be 18 problems in the Competition Area for the Qualifier Round
    • 6 problems per categories (3 category at the same time)
    • Problems will be identified 1 to 6, and clearly labeled with their respective category
  • Through the Qualification Round, each athlete will need to complete all 6 problems of their gender and category
  • Athletes will have 5 minutes to complete a problem, with as many attempts as necessary
  • Each problem will be judged

What is different from a regular 5 on / 5 off then?

  • Beta videos for each problem will be available on the CEC YouTube Channel by the Technical Meeting on Friday
  • Participants are assigned to one Qualification Heat – one in the morning, one in the afternoon
  • The Gym and Warm Up area will open at 7am, and remain opened until 8:30pm. There is NO Isolation area
  • Youth A (both genders) and Youth B Female will climb in the morning session, while Junior (both genders) and Youth B male will climb in the afternoon session

How will it work the day of?

  • Each Category will be subdivided into two Groups – Group A and Group B
    • Group A will do problems 1, 2, 3 – Rest – 4, 5, 6
    • Group B will do problems 4, 5, 6 – Rest – 1, 2, 3
  • The Judges of Problems #1 and Problems #4 will call athletes by their name and/or bib numbers. The first athlete will then get their 5min ON, before moving to the rest chair for 5 min
  • Participants will have a longer break after their first 3 problems, before moving on to their next 3 problems
  • If you miss you turn on either problem 1 or 4, you will be unable to climb that set of problems. You may still climb and collect a score on the other set of three problems. So, pay attention to the flow!

Check out this video that describes the flow very well!

Can I talk with my coach? Can I share beta with fellow participants?

  • Yes and no. Participants can move around freely in the Competition area, until it is their time to start their first problem.
  • When you are in your 5on, no beta or coaching is allowed.
  • Any other time, you can talk to your coach and fellow competitors, including while on your rest chair.

Why will this format be used at this year’s Youth Boulder National Championships?

  • The IFSC has shared that this format, piloted at the 2021 YWC, will be used more in future IFSC events. CEC would like to give our athletes experience in this format.
  • A classic iso format 5 on / 5 off with the anticipated numbers we will have (300+) would mean some athletes having to be in isolation for more than 10 hours.
  • The flash format keeps the value of a time limit (5 min) unlike the scramble format.
  • CEC considers the 2021-2022 Return to Competition as a Celebration of our sport and our community – we wanted to use a format that would allow for a higher number of participants.

Any other questions?

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🙏🏻🙏🏾🙏🏼Thank you for all of your hard work, @canyon.escalade_! From your leadership team to all of the staff that made this comp possible, we appreciate you!

📸: @philip_quade

#climbing #climbcanada #bouldering #compclimbing #YBC2022 @sportcanada @cbc.sports

🙏🏻🙏🏾🙏🏼Thank you for all of your hard work, @canyon.escalade_! From your leadership team to all of the staff that made this comp possible, we appreciate you!

📸: @philip_quade

#climbing #climbcanada #bouldering #compclimbing #YBC2022 @sportcanada @cbc.sports
...

👏🏿👏🏻👏🏼Your incredibly hard working setters, everyone! These champs work so hard before and during comps to make the best sets possible and we love them for it!!

📸: @philip_quade

#climbing #climbcanada #bouldering #compclimbing #YBC2022 @sportcanada @cbc.sports

👏🏿👏🏻👏🏼Your incredibly hard working setters, everyone! These champs work so hard before and during comps to make the best sets possible and we love them for it!!

📸: @philip_quade

#climbing #climbcanada #bouldering #compclimbing #YBC2022 @sportcanada @cbc.sports
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